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In 1976, the first time I was in magic Istanbul, the boats serving grilled fish at Galata Bridge were numerous, small, crowded. Ten years after few were left, and few people -mostly local- were buying food from them. Today only four are left, but much larger and with hints of funny grandeur. Tables are set on the Golden Horn banks: fortunately most of the clients are still Turkish and not groups of tourists. So, is this modernity too?